Recollections and writings on four holidays in Egypt in 2017, 2019, 2022, 2023. Exploring the ancient sites, and a doing a bit of meeting the locals, with my views on a few things.
I really should be doing more than I am but Egyptians are so chatty and on my morning walks they do like to stop me and show me around their gardens which of course does interest me and they always want to know what I grow in my garden..
This is a very elderly vine planted by Imad's grandfather... At the moment all the leaves on it are dead because it's winter, during the summer it will provide shade but I can't help feeling that it could do with a prune.
I will try and get a photo of Imad because when you look at him you see an Egyptian as depicted on the many carvings and wall paintings in the ancient temples.
Elsewhere in his garden he has citrus trees, avocado's, tomatoes, onions, and a henna tree which is much prized for its scent as well as the colour!
And he grows gardenias too... Except he doesn't know the name of them...
During the course of an hour he lets drop that he also owns the hotel next door, and that he has two feluccas on the Nile, and he cannot leave because, like many others, ''The Nile is in my blood''
Not so far away and nearer into 'town' we find today's bread being made using a method that probably has not changed for thousands of years in a traditional oven plonked on the side of the road.
And on the main road a car accessory shop selling fluffy dice..... And flashing lights that no motorbike or took took can be seen without.
And I am pleased to see the bridal shop has changed its display... I think I might go for the Guinevere look in the middle,
Returning to the banks of The Nile for the all important morning coffee we notice that the buffalo has finally been moved from its island because of the new height of the water level...
AS usual there are a couple of cats in attendance. Don't bother trying to make friends with them because Egyptian cats are even more up themselves than normal cats and they are bad enough.
Clearly modern cats have not forgotten that they were once revered in ancient Egypt.
AS you can see everything went completely wrong with the alignment there but i will soldier on..
So walking back to my apartment through the back streets gives a chance for a bit more local architecture..
I am not sure of the significance of the writing or pictures on the outside of the houses...
Aircraft seem to be a popular theme on many buildings...
The pink building is one of the many hotels tucked away in the back streets... I have had a look at some of these and they are actually quite nice once you get inside, don't be put off by the surroundings!
And I am going to leave you here with one of my little videos that was taken in the El Gezira Gardens hotel in Ramla, bearing in mind I have been here three times I had never been in here until the other night, and I must say I was impressed with the garden.
In the course of my wanderings in Egypt and around the world I have taken thousands and thousands of photographs so it is hardly surprising that my little Olympus 'pocket' camera has finally given up the ghost and no longer works.... This leaves me with just the Canon SLR and hopefully the battery will hold up for the rest of my stay because I don't have the charger with me...
But note that some of these photos have been taken on my mobile!!
Bob Marley again...
And a pit bull called Diesel which is quite a good name I think...
Keeping the streets clean... The woman in the distance is sweeping the dirt road.
Around my walking route there are several date palm trees that have been felled and will be used for building materials, in particular the really long ones are used as roof trusses, the ones on the left have been used to make a bridge across the irrigation canal.
The irrigation canal is low at the moment because they are draining it to clear out the culvert further up the road and also while the local council make this flash new canal with concrete walls!
Every butcher's shop comes complete with a built in dog....
And one lucky dog has found a whole skip full of meat!!
Not sure how that dog got up into the skip but it did..
You might have noticed that there are a number of motorbikes in some of the photos??
These are Chinese motorbikes and very popular here, they run out at about 20,000 EGP a pop, or about 1,000 English Pounds which is quite a reasonable price until you consider that an average wage is perhaps only 600 EGP a month, and a school teacher earns 2,000 EGP per month.
The ''farmer's'' version has a fixed trailor on the back, much like the things you see in Greece except new. The ones in Greece are all about 100 years old...
I have been given a lift in the back of one of these.....
And talking about transport... On the right is an official licensed cab with the orange stripe along the top of the plate..
You will also see plates with a red stripe, they are commercial vehicles.
This is a a private plate with the blue stripe, a lot of the people offering you a taxi are driving one of these so they are not supposed to be hiring themselves out. You can have good fun when you don't want a taxi by telling the driver that you are not a taxi, ''Shall I call the police?''
The car on the right is an official ''tourist'' car with a yellow stripe along the top of the plate, you can use these for airport/hotel transfers, and also getting from hotel to the various sites around the area. They don't have meters but you can negotiate a price with the driver. Be generous with him though because he might not get paid anything for official tourist business his only reward is the use of the car. (See previous blog about transfers to Hurghada!)
Other forms of public transport.... The dreaded took took which I will only get into if it is not moving....
I don't think they should let people of advancing years even get into one of these...
And one of the local minibuses, (note the orange stripe!). This is quite a smart new(ish) one most of them are banged up Volkswagen Camper vans, and in country towns they are a ute with bench seats along the side. I have yet to work out how these work although I have been in one in Cairo and used one a couple of weeks ago. You sort of stand on the side of the road looking hopeful (years of practice on that one), and eventually one will stop..... You give the driver money and if you give him paper money you seem to get most of it back in change...
And to finish up a ''Benny Hill'' moment as a man hoses down the dirt road to 'lay the dust' a bit...
Tourist: 'Why are you watering the road?'
Waiter: 'To keep the dust down'
Tourist: 'Is it water from the Nile?'
Waiter: 'No. it's bottled water'
Tourist: 'Isn't that expensive?'
Waiter: 'Yes. That is why the tea costs so much money'
(Assembled company is falling off their chairs laughing....)
Just in case you thought that Arabic was difficult to read, this picture proves otherwise, clearly you can read what is says!
And below.... This is dried tamarind, seeds, stalks, leaves, the lot I am told. These balls cost the princely sum of 50New English Pence each so I am taking some home with me to see if I can use them for making curry!
We have done noises in the night,
so here are some noises during the day.
In any Egyptian city and even in the middle of nowhere you will get the 'prayers' at certain times of the day.
This particular lot of prayers sounds more like a speech at a political rally, but the again maybe it is just that!
Certainly you can here it above the sound of the traffic...
And now a bit more about Egyptians... Egyptians always have something for sale, exactly what it is they are trying to sell is never quite clear... You know how it goes, you have just come off the ferry from the East Banks and immediately somebody will try to sell you a taxi, very cheap, very good price, Egyptian price... Having refused the taxi you will then be offered a boat to the East Bank, even though you have quite clearly just come from there... But it will be cheap, you know how much?
No I don't know how much but you are about to tell me.. And if i refuse that I will be offered a felucca for a 'sunset hour' or Banana Island cruise...
If you keep on refusing various modes of transport they will usually run out of options and in the end offer you a cotton scarf...
Much the same happens with property, they stick a for sale sign up but nobody knows what it is they are trying to sell... And even if you ask you will not find out! And naturally they are having to sell it because they need the money, well actually they don't and this is another similarity with Greeks, many Egyptians own more than one apartment block.
Of course there are some that are as poor as church mice, but many are not, so we don't believe the sob story either!
And then there is the man that wants to sell the family silver for no apparent reason. Or at least a faulty reason... Take the man that has three apartments and wants to sell one of them to buy a new car.
Why does he want a new car?
Well at present he has a car provided by one of the tour companies and he is at their beck and call to take people from Luxor to Hurghada, (and other places), for which they pay him the sum of 200 EGP....The going rate for the trip is 1700 EGP but this man thinks that he will make a lot more money than 200 EGP by buying his own car... Wrong of course because apart from the cost of the car there are all the associated bills so unless he is going to do three trips a day he is not going to make anything, and in the meantime he has lost the cash flow from the apartment he has sold...
This same man is currently doing a bit of building work on one of his apartments and he needs 1500 EGP, (why is it always 1500EGP they need?), very cheekily he has asked me if I would like to make a future booking and pay in advance the sum of 1500 EGP... Why he needs the money I do not know but he could have saved quite a lot if sign writing because he has put his name and phone number on the outside of my apartment... Except that nobody is going to see it because there is a high wall between the building and the street...
Decoration I can understand but he could have saved the cash having his name and phone number written!!
This sign writing can't be seen from the street either....
And even more amusing the table in the top photo has LED lights inside the top and lots of holes drilled in the top... Why????
Meanwhile elsewhere in the 'garden' he has constructed a 'puddle' for producing is own bricks and plaster for his buildings..
Egyptians are naturally noisy as well...
Down by the ferry there is continuous shouting going on since they moved the arrival point for the public ferry on the east bank, an enterprising band of locals is now running an almost scheduled service across the river to the old arrival point by Luxor Temple, and many are using it because it saves a long walk!
And Egyptians are incredibly cheeky if you let them get away with it, this one (below) seems to think we are ''one''.... Which means it is quite ok for me to buy him lunch on a daily basis...
And we will finish off with a bit of Egyptian music and a belly dancer...
And Egyptian men always seem to have enormous feet....
It really is quite difficult to get away from noise and light pollution these days and being here in Luxor I have noticed that quite a lot of the noise is just ''nature''.
Where I was staying down in Ramla there was noise at night from the river, if you have stayed here on the East or West Bank near the Nile then you will have noticed that there is noise from engines on the Nile cruise ships, this is due to the generators on board which provide power to the boat, and of course drive the pumps to keep the bilges clear.
But even away from the river I can still here the sirens from the trains during the night, but not so much during the day when it is masked by the occasional scooter or vehicle passing in the street, much more likely is the sound of horses/donkeys hooves!
Where I have moved to inland I was expecting to hear more 'people' noise but surprisingly there is little.... An amusing feature is that I am just across the road from the stables, so in the morning when they put the horses in the pens outside I get the sound of horses neighing not much more than about 3 metres from my head!
They also have a donkey and I don't know if you knew this but donkeys, like cockerels, never seem to sleep, what upsets this one I do not know but it frequently lets forth with a very bad tempered sounding braying in the middle of the night.
Add to this the cats which fight a night and our three neighbourhood watch dogs who take objection when certain people walk past and you can imagine that the wee small hours can be quite lively, but you get used to it...
There is no very late night venues on the West Bank, but I have discovered a bar that caters to northern Europeans of a certain age, and here again the Bob Marley influence is clear insinuating itself into the gent's toilet with the red, green, and yellow stripes... The other night when I visited the bar I entered to the sound of 'Hawkwind' from the 70s! Music is provided by a couple that used to live on Hayling Island...
I still haven't found a way of moving video clips to the right or left, the classic Smokie song... And next the gent's toilet decorations..
And this is something that I have never heard here before but it happens everywhere I guess... Two of the children playing in the street suddenly decided to fall out over something so one child hit the other child, the next minute both families were attacking each other with pieces of wood and throwing rocks whereupon the entire street joined in!!
And some thoughts on Egyptians...... In many ways Egyptians are like Greeks, or maybe that should be the other way around??
It is hardly surprising really when you consider that the Minoan and Egyptians civilisations were flourishing at around the same time and there was a fair amount of commerce around the Eastern Mediterranean, and then add in that Alexander conquered Egypt a couple of hundred years before the birth of Christ, there are bound to be similarities.
One of the notable ones is that they seem to be hypochondriacs just like Greeks are, during my stay here I have begun to lose count of the number of people that have suddenly become gravely ill.... Taking an example of the brother of a friend who is at Death's door, and urgently needs 1500 EGP (about 75 quid) for medical attention and medication, and no I certainly didn't chip in.. A couple of days later i saw him looking quite chipper and he proudly showed me the pictures on his phone of the medication he had to take..... Thoughtfully I got a copy of them from him..
Of course I am not his doctor but I think this is a bit over the top for an upset stomach with diarrhrea and throwing up! I asked him how long he had had the symptoms and they only started in the morning....
And I never knew they gave TOPRO to humans, I thought it was for farm animals....
The usual instruction for this type of complaint is drink plenty of water and eat boiled chicken and rice, or a nice bowl of chicken soup, or perhaps a couple of scrambled eggs... And if the symptoms perisist for more thn a couple of days.... etc., etc., And then we have to contend with the people with high blood pressure who have to go to the hospital on a daily basis for an injection, except they don't go on Sunday because the doctor isn't there on Sunday, so presumably their blood pressure is OK on Sunday... Generally by the way there seem to be quite a lot of people who are unwell in older age because of the hard life they have lived working in the fields....
And if it is of any interest, a new knee here costs 60,000 EGP, about £3,000 if you go private....
This explains the number of pharmacies here of course.....
And there are the business aspects of the Egyptian Economy which I will move on to in my next blog... There's something to look forward to...
And I will leave you with the Neighbourhood Dog Watch on patrol...
I have given u trying to catch up on the blogs that were missed for now, so on with the current stuff and then the rest will follow out of chronological order and you will never know!
When i said i wanted to go to the market everybody thought I just wanted to get the ferry cross the River to the souk to buy a bit of fruit and veg and maybe some spices...
No I want to go to a proper market where they sell camels and horses and animals..
Really?? Yes really.
I don't know why anybody should think it strange that I can milk a cow, or that I want to know how much a camel costs.
Or why I should even be interested in farm animals, but surely I am not the only person who has lived on a farm for a few years, or indeed there must be many that own farms in other countries who might be interested.
After a bit of discussion it seems that the best/nearest livestock market to go to is at Armant about 20kms south of Luxor. For a really big camel market you need to go down to Aswan which is a bit too far... In fact the market is not in Armant at all but to the west almost in the hills and right on the edge of the agricultural belt.
Armant is about centre in the map with the little blue marker..
Map courtesy of Google of course...
So I am up bright an early to leave at 6 am, I should have known that not a lot was going to happen going to happen at that time of day except breakfast...
A couple of wrong turns later and we finally got there, and the easiest way to show you is with a bit of video .
And it was just what I expected... In a lot of ways it was just like an English livestock market with lots of farmers sitting around drinking tea, (instead of beer), and more than likely discussing the weather and the price of oats and note the almost total lack of 'western' clothing, out here not a lot has changed for a thousand years, except of course they now have a lot more water for crops....
Exceptionally though there was not an auctioneer, everything is sold by battering for it....
And how strange the breeds are compared to the ones we see in Europe... Some might say the cattle are underfed but you see them chomping their way through food and realise they are not underfed it is just the way they are.
Donkeys there are aplenty, at a price...
Camels are worth a lot more than donkeys and indeed horses so a man's wealth can genuinely be calculated by the number of camels he has!
Junior here wanted to demonstrate that he can milk a cow..... But as it was a heifer I don't think he would get a lot out of it.
And in aisle 3, we have these... And I don't think these are donkeys... I think they are either mules or hinnies.
In the absence of any form of pens except a low row of rocks to keep the animals off the carpets nearly everything is 'hobbled' which looks a bit cruel but they don't use rope and it does solve the problem of the animals wandering off!
Goats and sheep are in aisle 1...
Titch on the right has just been sold along with one of his siblings for a total of 3200 EGP about £80 each, which I thought was quite expensive... The 'boy' tells me this is a sheep but it isn't, it's a goat...
And some very cute goats here as well, quite ornamental in fact. Oh dear admiring goats means I have lived on Crete for too long....
Get a camera out in Egypt and you are never short of a subject, this one on the right should go far, he seemed to think his picture was worth 10EGP, but all he got for his trouble was a clip around the ear from his father for pestering the tourist.
And some people, below, do not look too thrilled by the idea of market day...
And finally the ''tea tent''.. An important place for meeting friends and chewing the fat over a cup of tea and a shisha...
