Egypt Part The Third 2022 - Things Are Not Quite The Same, And Word Gets Around...

 So after a day of not doing a lot my legs are now used to being back on solid ground and I no longer feel like I am still on the train.

My hotel is next door to the one I stayed in on my last visit and Abdullah the 'house boy' has already spotted me and told Mahmoud the cook on the top floor who leaned over the balcony on the top floor next door to talk to me, my hotel is one floor shorter you see.

Today I will venture a little further afield and take the public ferry across to the East Bank... I take a late breakfast in the hotel, (2 hard boiled eggs, pitta bread, tea, cheese and jam, English pounds GB£1.50), and walking out the gate I find the nuisance from my last stay sitting outside the gate. (Egyptians are not allowed in hotels where there are foreigners staying unless, a) They work there, or b) They are staying there themselves)

How the nuisance found me I do not know but all I can say is the 'bush telegraph' works extremely well.

So what's changed?

A lot less people selling boats trips, taxi rides, and whatever else they can sell for a start, Instead of crowds of them there are now only a few and yet the number of boats moored on both sides of the Nile is just the same.

And what few people there are are a lot less pushy, but I know how to get rid of them now anyway so they didn't really bother me a lot.

A little shopping never goes amiss and prices are still the same, a few essentials like some fruit... and toms and cucs..

The fruit set me back by 35 LE, or £1.60 if you prefer, and the tomatoes and cucumber were £5, or 25p if you like...

Meanwhile the public ferry no longer goes straight across to the other side of the river but now lands a lot further north near the museum which was a bit of surprise as it is no miles to get to the market and Luxor Temple. Well not really miles but quite a long way. 

I haven't got to the bottom of why it has been changed.... Yet.

                                                                                                              

One thing I did find out walking past the Temple was how people knew I was back, this is down to a tour guide that I have used twice in 2017 and 2019 and he saw me getting off the train the previous night. So that is one puzzle solved.

One thing about them moving the ferry is that there is now a couple of cafes nearby. The 'boy' making the coffee assures me that he is 'very beautiful', I will leave you to make your own decisions about that!

Meanwhile back at the hotel some Irish people have just arrived, they flew in via Hurghada which is how a lot of people seem to be doing it, probably because of the cheaper flights. They have just spent a week in Hurghada and are trying to do the rest of Egypt in a week. It's not going to work.. I try and help and give them a few tips of what is most important, but they have got one thing right and that is that they want to do a short cruise up the Nile to Aswan but have been put off by a TV program showing Joanna Lumley all dolled up and sipping cocktails. I assure them that a Nile cruise is not like that unless the TV company are paying a fortune for one of the 'select' cruise boats.

Wandering around my neck of the woods I take make morning exercise through the banana plantations along some very dusty tracks...

Passing just one of the many stables in the area. They make quite a thing of horse riding here and most of the Egyptians can ride it seems, if they can't ride a horse they can ride a donkey. With the amount of horses and donkeys here I am surprised that they don't all grow prize roses in their gardens. 

Indeed they don't seem to use the manure for anything just stack in bigger and bigger piles on the side of the road, although I suspect that in some areas they burn it as fuel judging by the smell at time.

Wandering about in the middle of nowhere I come across the shell of a new building which according to the sign is set to become a new hotel, the sign does not say when but looking at the state of the building it will not be in the near future.

Heading back in to 'town' via the main road to the desert and The Valley of The Kings takes a while because you have to keep stopping to talk to people many of whom do not speak much English but enough to ask where you are from

 ''England'',

 ''Ah, lovely people''.

 So you see we are not as bad as we think we are!

Arriving back in the ''village'' I find out what the best dressed bride will be wearing this year, and stop off at the bakery where I admire the pitta breads and get given one still warm from the oven.

The pittas are quite 'fluffy' when they come out of the oven... The man on the counter selling them has to give them a bit of a 'pat' to squash them down a bit, a skilled job if ever I saw one....

Meanwhile back at 'The Corniche' it is time for a picnic lunch on the ''Ahmed''

A variety of 'sandwiches' in pitta bread along with bit s and pieces cost a massive 100 LE, about £4. The delivery boy didn't get a tip he got a leftover sandwich instead, and a new taste was to be had,

pickled pink turnip, unbelievably salty!! I will not be eating those again a hurry!

Egypt Part The Third 2022 - In Luxor (finally!)

 It is now Tuesday and if you are observant you will notice that I am still on the train, except I am not.

The train was supposed to be an express and all went well until we got to Minya which is about 150 miles south of Cairo so roughly half way, and we reached Minya after about 4 hours. So according to me we are running to schedule, yes?? But no, because I couldn't find an actual route timetable so what I didn't know was that further down the line the train turns into an ordinary stopping train. 

A bit further down the train stopped at Assyut, and again I know that is a scheduled stop. And look at all those stations we are now going to stop at!

Minya, by the way has what must be one of one of the tallest mobile phone towers in the world...

 

And why is that Egyptians seem to appear at the side of the railway line for no apparent reason, (below). He can't of come from anywhere because there is a canal behind him, unless he can walk on water... And why is he just standing there?

Still lots to look at though because it does not get dark until after 5pm, and numerous level crossings which are unmanned it seems...

Logically enough I got organised to get off the train after 8 hours, getting suitcases down off racks etc., when doing so a man two seats in front very kindly came and told me that the train was running 3 1/2 hours late... Of course the language barrier got it a bit wrong here because we are not running late at all.

Because we have turned into a stopping train the trip now takes 3 1/2 hours longer!!

And a bit more video for you.....

So instead of arriving in Luxor at 6.42pm we eventually arrive at 10.15pm.... At least sitting on a train requires no effort, and there is a tea trolley comes around at regular intervals. And when it does I now suddenly realise what the tea man was trying to tell me earlier on during the trip when he asked me where I was going and busily showing me numbers on his mobile phone! 

Luckily I have come prepared with bags of crisps, chocolate, and water.... Although I did buy lunch on the train which cost me 45LE for two cups of tea and an enormous chicken roll.

Fortunately I had already told my hotel which train I was coming on and I think they realised that I did not know that the train was going to be much later than the time I gave them.

The transfer organised by my hotel was a little different as well, a taxi from the station to the Nile, a boat across the Nile, a quick clamber up the bank and 15 minutes later I am in my room. I was expecting to be taken by taxi over the bridge 15 kms upstream from Luxor.

SO after all this I got into bed and the bed was still moving with the rhythm of the train! Not a comfortable experience.

Today will be a rest day.

Egypt Part The Third 2022, From Cairo To Luxor & The Joys of Egyptian Train Travel!

If you have been keeping up with my Egyptian Odyssey you will remember that twice before I have used the trains in Egypt, once from Luxor to Aswan, and the overnight sleeper from Aswan to Cairo in 2017 so I am at least a little prepared for the journey.

(Leaving the train at Luxor a man tried to tell me he was a ticket collector and wanted my ticket, he actually wanted my ticket to get out of the station because he didn't have one....)

What you have to remember is that this is Egypt...... While the British might have been responsible for the original construction they have not been responsible for the maintenance required. Neither, it would appear, have the Egyptians.

Forget the comfort of being whisked by Richard Branson from London Euston to Manchester, or indeed the speed with which Amtrak will take you from Boston to New York, for a start the rolling stock is considerably older, and they certainly have not got around to electrification!

The rolling stock has a variety of descriptions, the one I am on is described as ''Speed AC Spanish''. Now quite what this means I am not sure but I suspect that it means it was bought second hand from Spain.....

Having been heaved aboard by the man that checks the train is actually coupled together, and slipping him a fiver for heaving my 22kg suitcase up on to the overhead rack, I take my seat on upholstery that has certainly seen better days.....

 The train is airconditioned to the extent that it is freezing cold which required me putting on a second pair of socks, and the toilet arrangements leave something to be desired. No scrub that, they leave a LOT to be desired.

But I am getting ahead of myself, the train is due to depart at 10.00am and arrive in Luxor at 6.42pm. A total of 8 hours and 42 minutes..... 10.00am is when the train arrives at the platform, it leaves at 10.10am and after a saunter arrives at Giza half an hour later. A 15km journey....

There are supposedly a couple of other stops on the way but it is (supposed) to be a non stop to Luxor.

Shortly after departure we cross the Nile and are treated to the normal Egyptian urban landscape which like most others is not particularly exciting....

There are quite a few urban infrastructure projects underway in the outskirts of Cairo and these seem to mainly be the construction of elevated roads, like the one below which is a flyover over the railway and several buildings as well.

Sadly the same investment is not being made in the railways.....

AS ever in Egypt there are the remains of older buildings demolished and left as well as the proverbial piles of rubbish. Removing all this would be a project of such vast proportions that it will probably never be attempted!

But it is not long before we reach the rural landscape which prevails along the Nile valley, naturally the windows have had only a cursory wash on the outside, but then the inside is not that clean either...

After a while even I get less interested in the landscape rolling by and resort to a book unless something catches my attention...

You can try sleeping of course but will be woken often as the carriage makes violent lurches over the uneven tracks....

And if you are at the front the driver is almost continuously sounding the horn on the train, although I must admit the horn is quite musical although why it has to be sounded almost continuously is beyond me.

Passing through the fields is a little like a journey in time.... Donkeys and carts and the occasional camel are the commonest form of transport and the agriculture is all manual labour, rarely will you see a tractor. And here's a little video for you!

                          

                                   

                                                    

Egypt Part The Third, A Day In Cairo And Buying a Rail Ticket

 Sometimes things in Egypt do not quite go according to plan, and in this instance it was the non arrival of my transit car ordered through the hotel.

At first I thought this might be because of my early arrival at the airport and the lack of other passengers meant that it took only 40 minutes to get through the airport so the car would turn up in its own time.

But the Egyptians are ever helpful and an official, yes really, an official taxi rep kindly phoned the hotel for me and finally got hold of the owner who admitted that he had forgotten to order my transfer, so my new found taxi rep offered to take me into Cairo at the same price, at which point I lied and said the hotel had quoted me US$20 when they had actually said US$25.

The traffic in Cairo has not got any better and I am surprised to see that there are many new infrastructure projects being started, but it is a shame that they haven't finished the older ones yet.

Indeed, Cairo must be quite high up on the list of most un-finished cities in the world. Or perhaps I mean one of the least finished cities in the world.

Why I expected things to be finished after a space of 3 years, or indeed, after a space of 5 years from first visit I really do not know.....

The taxi drops me on Talaat Haab roundabout and points across the road and tells me my hotel is in that building.

It isn't of course. It is actually the building next to where he dropped me off but it take me 20 minutes to find that out after I have dragged my bags across the square and back again.

I am pleased to find that I have not lost the art of crossing a Cairo street without getting run over... It is all about timing you see and adjusting your pace so that you cross one lane of traffic without getting run over by the next lane.

The hotel boasts that it has a lift, except that it does not come down to street level....

After trying several banks to change some cash, I finally find a packed ''exchange shop'' which does the transaction for me at a rate of 21.15 LE to GB£1...

And I still don't have a train ticket for my onward journey to Luxor the following day....

Egyptian National Railways has a web site that 'promises' that you can buy tickets online to save time at the station.

To date I have not heard of anybody having been able to open an account and do this, not even an Egyptian.

The only effective way of doing it is to go to the station which does present a problem because nobody seems to know where Rameses Station actually is, not even the taxi drivers.

After 40 minutes in a taxi going around in circles in the general area of the station we finally manage to home in on it although you can no longer drive up to the front door, presumably to stop the chaos that normally reigns with legal and illegal taxis blocking up the entrance. (Remember that I have been her before when I arrived on the overnight sleeper from Aswan 5 years ago).

My driver, who has done the strangest thing and has actually put the meter on, asks me to get out of the taxi about 400 metres away and charges me the princely sum of 50 LE, about £2.50 for the trip...

I have already written out my preferred train time, destination, and the 'train number' on a piece of paper to give to the ticket office clerk, (the ticket machines are not working), but that doesn't stop him querying every piece of information that I have put on the paper.

Twice.

Finally I get my ticket, first class leaving at 10 am the following morning and it costs me 145LE.

I will not go into details of the taxi ride back to my hotel, nor of my journey from the hotel to Ramsis Station the following morning except to say that an official taxi wanted 200 LE to take me because I had a bag, but a completely illegal taxi only wanted 100 LE.....

Everybody needs to visit Rameses Station, or indeed Ramsis Station.. In the past I have seen some spectacular stations but I think that Rameses is surpassed only by some stations in Russia and I have only ever seen photos of those.

I am not certain to what period the interior is supposed to belong....

Somewhere between Art Deco/Nouveau and a bad dream would probably be appropriate....

The Egyptian rail network is one of two things that the British gave to Egypt, the second being the original Aswan (Low) Dam. 

With a certain amount of self  interest the British took on the project to shorten communications between Europe, notably England, and its largest colony, India!

To a certain extent the building of the Suez Canal rather took away the need for the railway link as the French decided to get in on the act.....

Of course as you would expect, there is little point in watching the destination board on the main concourse waiting for a platform number for your train, instead I found somebody in a uniform who told me that it would be going from Platform 11 and was kind enough to guide me and actually carry my bags to the right place, and what's more he didn't even want a tip!!

That is a world first in Egypt where tipping is the norm.

So Here We Go With Egypt Part The Third In January 2022! Getting There.....

 For the last two years there has been nothing in the news apart from the Sars2-COVID19 scamdemic which has made travel well nigh impossible, has frightened people, and indeed, has governments around the world panicking and running around like headless chickens. We have had lockdowns which have apparently done little good except annoy people and we now have more people with paranoia than we do with COVID...... 

The media hasn't helped by publishing poor researched articles and using the statistics to sell newspapers rather than using them to show just what little effect it has had, and indeed it now appears that there is no such thing as ordinary flu which killed millions each year instead of which COVID kills them instead.....

During the last two years I have ''collected'' a number of flight vouchers as a result of flights being cancelled and rescheduled and now the time has come to use them because they are worth more as flights than the cash refund I can get, so the route for travelling is a little bit devious as I am currently in the UK using a ticket that I bought in January 2020 which is return from Athens to London Gatwick with good old Easyjet.

The flight vouchers I have are only usable with Aegean Air so the logical route is from London via Athens to Cairo... Of course I could fly on a cheapie with Easyjet to Hurghada or Sharm El Sheikh but that would mean buying yet another ticket, and flying from London to Cairo is out because of the price....

Leaving London on a grey drizzly Saturday gets to me to a not much warmer Athens where I stay overnight at the Holiday Inn which is considerably cheaper than the Sofitel at Athens Airport.

An early start in the pouring Greek rain after an almost sleepless night because of a thunderstorm gets to me to the departure gate for Cairo before many of the airport staff have even arrived for work!

And the flight to Cairo is almost empty...

Less than two hours sees me landing in Cairo where my request for assistance through the airport seems not have been received but Cairo airport is not huge.

And straight away there is a difference.... On the way through to Immigration there is a check point where they check vaccination certificates, currently there is no need for a pcr test if you have one of these.

Next the banks at the airport no longer change money, I really do not know why, and they only take money for the tourist visa.

But I already have my visa because you can now get a visa on line!!

On the flight they give you a PLF/Public Health Form to fill in, but nobody at Cairo airport seems the least bit interested in it so I leave the airport still holding it!

Some things do not change, and my passport gets checked twice more after immigration, and my bags are X rayed before leaving the terminal building...... But I have things to do so more tomorrow!

New DIscoveries, Aida in Luxor, Thwarted Plans for Egypt and The Latest Update March 2020 COVID 19 included

This post was originally published on 25th March 2020, and updated and re-dated in April 2020 and again in May 2020

While you might think that Egyptian archaeology is a completed book this is a long way from the truth and discoveries are still being made.

During the course of 2019, a new tomb was discovered as Saqqara, and also at Saqqara the Bent Pyramid is now open to the public since 1965, similarly at Dashur a pyramid has been re-opened to the public. 

The Valley of The Kings has also revealed new secrets, and there have been new discoveries at Aswan, and also out at Fayoum and Abydos to name but a few. And now more is being discovered about the finds that have already been made such as the fact that Hatshepsut died of cancer and had diabetes!

There is one tomb that would still be one of the greatest finds in Egyptian archaeology, and to the finder will go much fame, but probably little fortune... The whereabouts of the tomb of Cleopatra has yet to be discovered and while perhaps she is not the greatest of Egypt's rulers, she is certainly one of the most romantic!

In October a performance of Verdi's Aida was given in Luxor in front of The Temple Of Hatshepsut, I would dearly loved to have been there as  performance of Verdi's greatest (for me anyway), opera in the country where the story was set would be amazing. Many years ago there was a performance done at Giza, maybe some day there will be another and I will be lucky enough to go this time!

The plan for spending my winters in Egypt depended a lot on being able to sell my winter house on Crete, which had in any case been up for sale for some time.

So getting back to Crete I find that the new petrol station next to my house is now complete and indeed open for business. Exactly why anybody in the day and age would even consider building a brand new gas station is beyond me, particularly as there is one about 700 metres along the road.

But this is Greece, and if you own a piece of land you can build on it. So much for town planning, or business planning come to that....

With the exception that this turns out to be the smelliest gas station ever built, mainly because they have leaking pipework and they do not seems to understand that it should not smell.....

Having put up with the steadily worsening fume for 6 months I end up writing to BP in the UK to ask them to do something about it as their sign is outside and as they have licensed the petrol station it is their responsibility, or so I feel....

As it is now impossible to sell my house, any future plans have now been shelved!!

In addition my 6 monthly check up at the hospital showed that the area of fibrosis on my left lung has got larger. My doctor tells me this is more than likely due to pollution or chemicals in the air. As there is only one thing that has changed in my environment.......

Thank you #BP #BPInternational !!!!!

By now we are in the throes of the coronavirus ''pandemic'' which has affected less people than the annual 'flu season but has involved people around the world being incarcerated in their homes, often against their wishes, for long periods of time.

Welcome to 1984! George Orwell would love it!

Up until March I was able to keep in touch with people I met in Egypt who told me that the situation was much as published on various web sites, and like other countries the measures were designed to prevent the spread so to avoid the fact that most countries have ''creaking'' healthcare systems, and there is quite a lot of political mileage in preventing healthcare systems from becoming overloaded.....

The coronavirus outbreak has also caused a further delay in the opening of the New Egyptian Museum in Cairo, I don't think many people were actually holding their breath waiting for it to be opened as there have been so many delays in its construction and opening that we are now used to it not being open!

Back in February WhatsApp announced that they would no longer be supporting my aged Samsung phone and in the process of upgrading to a newer version of Android I lost all my history and contacts on WhatsApp (in spite of having a back up, which like all back ups never actually works when you need it), as a result I am now no longer in contact with anybody for the latest news ''on the ground''.

But I am not finished yet... I still have my blog to complete of my journey to the US and Canada in late 2018, which has never been published as I did not have any photographs... Until last month when finally my hard drive was reclaimed!

The Return To Egypt 2019, The Journey Home, And Future Plans.

Last night was my last night in Luxor and as I had an early flight I moved across the Nile to stay at The Winter Palace as it is a bit nearer to the airport..... 

A little bit of a wander around the East Bank and dinner at The Lantern suggests to me that there are a number of ex pats living here, or at least spending the winter here. If you want to eat at The Lantern you need to book, unless there is only one of you!

The place always seems to be full.....

We are in ''downtown'' Luxor here and there are a variety of ''foreign food restaurants in this area, although why somebody should come to Egypt to eat Chinese/Thai/Indian food beats me.... But then the same can be said in Greece where the first thing people look for is MacDonalds or Pizza Hut.

There are a couple of quite good ''spice'' shops here though, and also Arkwright's Store which I guess caters very much for the English....

Luxor airport is deserted when I get there, not even the security gate is open yet!

As I am on the early flight to Cairo there are not many other passengers and after getting my bag X rayed there is time for a cup of coffee before heading through a rather tight security screening to get to the departure gate. I have already had a word with the check in staff about my transfer through Cairo airport because I do not have a lot of time, but it turns out it is a breeze as the transfer gate is not far from my arrival gate.

With time to spare and the flight back to Athens I have time to do a bit of thinking...

When I first came to Egypt in January 2017 I was well aware that my health was not all that it could be and indeed a few weeks later I was hospitalized for a week and diagnosed with emphysema and possibly lung cancer.

After tests it turned out that there was no cancer but fibrosis on one lung...

For many years I have spent winter on the Greek island of Crete because the weather is less cold, but no less wet, than the UK, but I have realised now that even the Cretan winter does not do me any good and that my breathing during the last three weeks while staying in Luxor has been considerably better.

It is the very low humidity of course, and it rarely rains in Luxor, there were a few spots one evening while I was there and so I have decided that maybe next winter I will come for an extended stay to enjoy the warm days but sometimes very chilly nights!

The blog is not finished yet, and perhaps you can look forward to a whole new blog on Living In Egypt!!

Until then......